Wednesday, June 30, 2010

Aquarium Light

Aquarium lighting

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Aquarium lighting describes any type of light that is used to illuminate an aquarium tank or in some instances, such as with reef aquariums, support the life contained within.

[edit] Freshwater

Freshwater aquarium lighting often comes in two forms; one is a screw-in style incandescent bulb and the other is normal output fluorescent lighting. Screw-in compact fluorescent lighting is also used in freshwater aquaria since it provides brighter light output than traditional screw-in style bulbs.
More demanding freshwater set-ups, such as planted freshwater aquariums, may require stronger light sources. Compact fluorescent bulbs, high output T5 bulbs or metal halide lamps are often used over such aquariums to encourage plant growth. While these lights can provide a better spectrum than traditional ones, they often use more electricity and have a high heat output.
 clipped from www.fishlore.com

Aquarium Lighting - Fish Tank Lighting

One important aspect of keeping tropical fish is aquarium lighting. This is an often overlooked area that can sometimes be confusing for a beginner to aquariums. The confusion may come from the many available types of fish tank lighting that you can use to light your tank. The main types of light are:

  • regular fluorescent lights,
  • compact flourescent,
  • high output (ho) flourescent,
  • very high output (vho) flourescent
  • metal halide
  • LED - Light Emitting Diodes
The type of light you need for your tank really depends on what you plan on keeping in your tank. This article is a very general introduction into aquarium lighting and below we discuss the various types of lighting needs based on aquarium type. These are general recommendations and we encourage you to research your livestock's lighting requirements for best results.


Light Spectrum
Spectrum of visible light expressed in nanometers (nm).
Aquarium Light Types

Regular Flourescent Light
These are the type of lights that come with most starter tanks and are very affordable. They typically range from 15 to 40 watts and have Kelvin ratings from 3,000° to 10,000°. Kelvin is the scale used to measure the color temperature. They are very cheap to run and replace. Compact Flourescent Light Bulb
These are a step up from the regular flourescent lights. They typically range from 10 to 100 watts and have Kelvin ratings from 5,000° to 10,000°. They offer really bright and intense light but they do put off some heat that may raise the tank water temperature. Running power compact lights will require special hoods and because of the heat produced, they often come with installed fans in the hood.
High Output (HO) Flourescent Light
HO flourescent lights typically range from 20-60 watts and have Kelvin ratings from 6,000° to 11,000°. They are more expensive than regular flourescents and usually last longer. These lights require a T5 light fixture.
Very High Output (VHO) Flourescent Light
VHO flourescent lights typically range from 75-160 watts and have Kelvin ratings from 10,000° to 20,000°. These lights are very expensive and produce a lot of heat. They require a ballast and/or special fixture especially for VHO lights. They have fans incorporated into the lighting unit to help keep the lights and aquarium cool. Even though they come with fans you may need to equip your tank with an aquarium chiller to prevent your tank water from overheating.
Metal Halide Light Bulb
Metal Halide lamps typically range from 175-1000 watts and have Kelvin ratings from 5,000° to 20,000°. This type of light is closest to the sun in terms of luminousity but they are very expensive to buy, operate and replace. They produce a lot of heat and usually must be fan cooled. Ballasts with fan units included are widely available. This is often the preferred method of lighting a reef tank setup with anemones and corals that need higher intensity lighting.
LED Aquarium Lights
Is this what we have in store for the future of aquarium lighting systems? Prices as of 2007 are still very high and they will need to drop significantly in price before more hobbyists will transition to them. They offer many advantages over previously mentioned lights. Some of the advantages of LED lights over convential flourescents and metal halides include:

  • LED lights run much cooler than standard flourescents and metal halides
  • LED lights consume less energy than the other lights
  • They have a much longer life span
  • There is no filament to break, so they could be considered more durable
  • They can be configured in many ways due to their small size.
Many of the light fixtures being sold now include moon lights which are LEDs. So we're starting to see them more often, but even though these LED's are very promising we are probably still a few years away from using them as the primary light source on most home aquariums.
Freshwater Aquarium Light - Fish Only
For a freshwater tank with no live plants you can get by with the low watt flourescent lights. These lights are typically between 18 and 40 watts and should last for a year or longer before they burn out. Freshwater Aquarium Plant Lighting
Live plant keepers will need to upgrade their lighting system. The light type you need depends on several factors:
  • Depth of the tank
  • Plant species you plan on keeping
  • Growth rate desired

Typically, plant keepers try to provide anywhere from 2-5 watts per aquarium gallon. Research the plants you want to keep beforehand to determine if you can provide the light needed. Saltwater Aquarium Light - Fish Only
Fish only saltwater tanks will work fine with regular flourescent bulbs. Try to get a "full spectrum" light for your tank.
While tanks with live rock can get by with regular flourescent full spectrum lights they will do better with flourescents and actinic lights (blue light). It really depends on how well you want the coralline algae to grow. Certain types of coralline algae seems to grow better with higher amounts of actinic lighting.
Saltwater Reef Aquarium Light
Saltwater reef tanks with corals, clams and other light needing organisms will need the high output, very high output flourescent or metal halide lamps. Certain corals, anemones and clams require very intense lighting levels that can only be provided with VHO and metal halide light sources. A general rule of thumb for reef tanks is between 4 and 10 watts per aquarium gallon. Many reefers have lighting systems incorporating metal halides and VHO flourescent tubes. Research the species you want to keep because light requirements can vary. Because of the amount of heat these light units can produce, you may need to get an aquarium chiller to keep your tank water temperature in an acceptable range. The expense of lighting a reef tank may be just as high or higher than the cost of the live rock.
Photo Period - How long do you leave the lights on?
How long should the fish tank lights stay on for? We get this question frequently. A good range to aim for would be anywhere from 6 to 12 hours. Remember that fish like and need to rest just like other animals. Fish only setups could range from 6 to 12 hours, reef tank setups and freshwater planted aquariums could range from 10 to 12 hour photo periods. Leaving the lights on for longer time periods could contribute to nuisance algae growth (just one of the factors with algae growth), higher tank temperatures and quicker tank water evaporation. Be consistent and if you can afford it, invest in a light timer.
Aquarium Light Timer
You may also want to get an aquarium light timer. A light timer can help make running an aquarium that much more enjoyable because it's one less thing you have to mess with. Most higher end fish tank hoods and fixtures have multiple power cords that are tied into the multiple light sockets within the hood. This allows you to setup your timer to turn on the various lights at different times.
For instance, a popular hood nowadays is the compact flourescent hood incorporating an actinic bulb, a full spectrum bulb and a moon light. You could set up the timer to turn on the actinic bulb to go on first and stay on for 12 hours, then have the full spectrum bulb come on an hour or so later and stay on for 10 hours. This could simulate dawn and dusk by having the actinic bulbs come on an hour early and stay on an hour later. Finally, you could have the moon lights turn on when the actinics turn off. Who knows, you may even start to see breeding behavior in certain species that may be more in tune with the light of the moon in this type of setup. Another side benefit of using a moon light is the super cool effect it creates in the aquarium when all the other lights in the room are off.
Conclusion
As you can see, the type of light you need really depends on they type of tank your running. Freshwater and Saltwater fish only tanks can usually get by with the regular flourescent lights whereas the freshwater plant keepers and saltwater reef tank keepers will need to invest in better light sources.
Please practice good aquarium electrical safety and be sure to use drip loops and gfci outlets!

How Long Should Aquarium Lights be Left On?

By , About.com Guide
Question: How Long Should Aquarium Lights be Left On?
Answer: The ideal 'photo period', or length of time the aquarium lights are on, ranges from eight to twelve hours, depending on the aquarium setup. Generally ten hours a day is a good average for most aquariums.

Reducing the Time
If algae is a problem in the tank, a contributing factor is usually too much light. Reducing the time the aquarium lights are on to eight hours, or a bit less if necessary, will help reduce the algae growth.

Some fish prefer lower lighting conditions. Many cichlids thrive on less light, as do many species of the tetra family. If the room has good ambient lighting, it's possible to reduce or even eliminate additional aquarium lighting.

Increasing the Time
If there are live plants in the aquarium, the aquarium lighting period should be increased. Plants require as much as twelve hours per day, however the time will depend on the aquarium setup and species of plants.

Use a Timer
The biggest obstacle in maintaining uniform aquarium lighting is that owners aren't able to turn the lights on and off at the same time each day. Fortunately there is an inexpensive and easy way to remedy that problem.

Purchase an inexpensive timer and plug the lighting unit into it. Set the on and off times to obtain the desired period of light, then cross that task off your daily 'To Do' list permanently. I highly recommend timers for all aquarium owners.

Tuesday, June 29, 2010

Heater Reviews

Fluval E Series Heaters


digital thermometer and digital heater in one package

They also come with a side bracket that in my case was very useful for mounting on the side but turning the heater so they face towards the back of the tank for easy reading.


















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Hydor ETH Inline Heater


Advantages:

temperature hasnt fluctuated one degree in 7 months.
a step up and more modern

















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Ebo-Jager brand of heaters

advantage:

 eeping my tank at a solid 78.9 degrees
solid temp
Keeps the temperature consistant. 
one for well over 10 years
had a 75 watt one for over 10 years and it just stopped working this year.

disadvantage:

rather large. 


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  Tank Size     Watts     Length  
  10-15 gal.   50w 9"
  15-20 gal.   75w 10"
  20-30 gal.   100w 12"
  30-45 gal.   125w 12"
  40-60 gal.   150w 13"
  60-90 gal.   200w 15"
  >90 gal.   250w 17"

How to use Undergravel filter?

Under Gravel or Undergravel Filters

Filtering Your Aquarium Water

What Is an Under Gravel Filter?

Under gravel filters are any filters where the water is drawn through the gravel as the primary filter media. The portion of the filter you will purchase is a plastic grate that keeps the gravel off of the bottom of the tank, lift tubes to deliver water, and power heads or an air pump to move the water.

How Does an Under Gravel Filter Work?

Under gravel filters consist of a plastic grate or "filter plate" which lies under the gravel of the tank. This plate allows water to flow freely under the gravel. Water is drawn through the gravel (which acts as a mechanical and biological filter). To move the water, you can use either power heads or air pumps. A power head will pump water out of the top of the lift tube and into the tank, and air pump will blow bubbles at the bottom of the lift tubes and the bubbles will lift Under Gravel Filter Diagram water up the lift tube and into the tank. As water is moved out of the lift tube, it is replaced with water from under the filter plate, which in turn pulls water through the gravel where it is cleaned. The gravel it self provides mechanical filtration by catching large free-floating particles. The gravel, as well as the filter plate, tank bottom, and lift tubes, provide a bed for the bacteria of a biological filter. Under gravel filters primarily provide biological filtration.

What Maintenance Does an Under Gravel Filter Require?

With an under gravel filter you neither have to nor want to change your filter media. However, you will need to clean the gravel regularly. The easiest way to do this is by using a gravel vacuum and cleaning 1/4-1/3 of the gravel each time you do your weekly water change. This is necessary to prevent the gravel from "channeling," where the debris collecting in the gravel blocks some passages and forces the water through channels, resulting in decreased water flow and reduced exposure to the bacteria that clean the water. Under gravel filters are generally the lowest maintenance filters and are the cheapest to keep running.

What Should I Be Aware Of with an Under Gravel Filter?

Some under gravel filters come with carbon cartridges that fit the top of the lift tubes. These are unnecessary and can be dangerous. There is not enough carbon in these cartridges to provide sufficient chemical filtration, if you are running your filter with an air pump, you are not moving enough water through the carbon to provide good chemical filtration, and the carbon will restrict (and may even stop) water flow through the filter. Additionally, when the carbon becomes saturated, it is possible for it to begin to release other toxins into your tank. If you do decide to use carbon cartridges with your under gravel filter, you should replace them at least three times a month. Remember to remove any carbon from the tank or filter before you medicate (if the carbon is working, it should remove the medication from the tank in under an hour, in which case your fish won't get treated).
Also remember that water will follow the path of least resistance. If there is an area of the filter plate that is exposed, or if you have a power head on one side and an air stone on the other, you may not have any filtration from your under gravel filter.
Under gravel filters, when properly maintained, provide efficient biological filtration and adequate mechanical filtration. I would strongly recommend an under gravel filter for the first filter in a basic tank. You don't have to tear up your tank to clean your filter with an under gravel filter, because to clean it, all you have to do is siphon off the accumulated debris in the gravel when you do your regular water change.
Though some people claim that under gravel filters are unreliable or even dangerous, these claims are unfounded, unsupported, and irrational.



Do I must need extra Water Pumps/ Powerheads for my 90 gallons?

Hydor Koralia Powerhead

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

every reviews for this product is perfect

http://www.piranha-fury.com/pfury/index.php?/topic/162135-hydor-koralia/

Monday, June 28, 2010

Shopping List for my Next Aquarium

Aquarium
Filter
Heater
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CO2 Filter
air bump
Aqua Light
bump tube

Aquarium Canister Filter Review.from Piranah-fury forum

RENA XP3 - 350 gph (up to a 175g)

Benefits:
  • Economist one.
  • easy to maitnece, 
  • cleans water well, 
  • good quality, 
  • cheap price

Disadvantages.:
  • the intake tube is a series of smaller sections you push together to make it as long as you need, and with skittish P's slamming into it, they can knock them apart.
  • if you burn out the motor you can't just buy a new one and replace the motor....you need to replace the whole top piece which costs about as much as the whole filter in the first place.
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EHEIM Classic Series Canister filter.

Benefits:

  • zero noise
  • easy to set up and maintain
  • water has more time to "filter"
  • without upsetting the plants

Disadvantages:
  • very low flow
  • not easy to clean


Notes:

Unplug the filter. Shutoff all 4 levers in the quick disconnect. Disconnect the filter. Pop the top and remove the pump. Fill a 5 gallon bucket with tank water about 1/2 way. Dump the bio-media in the bucket and swish it around. Rinse the sponges and cylinder in the sink. Put the little stand thing and sponge back on the bottom. Dump back in the bio-media..and put in the top sponge and plastic thingy. Snap on the pump. Hook up the intake hose. Open the flow from the intake to allow the water to fill the canister. Once it is full, hook up the output hose and open it up. Plug it back in. Done. No mess at all..and very quick. They do have a basket for the newer ones...but form-e...it is just as easy or easier to do without.
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EHEIM Professional 2


Benefits:

Maintainence is pretty easy
holds a lot of media,
runs silent, superquiet
clean it once every 3 months
never loses flow or leaks
easy to disconnect the hoses and reattach them

Disadvantages:

the quick disconnect thumb tab was broken off
plastic piece broke




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EHEIM Profesional 3
 

Benefits:

  • Quiet, 
  • reliable, 
  • powerful, 
  • expensive, 
  • green
  • flow is awesome 
  • more solid strong flow
  • stream feature is also nice
  • easy to set up & get running

Disadvantage:
  • expensive
  • manage to break where the hoses go on


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FLUVAL FX5


Benefits:

  • Many options on type of media and amount of media
  • Plug-N-Play

Disadvantages:

  • trouble with sand
  • screeching noise
  • flow slows
  • odd overall design/engineering
  • pads need to be replaced more frequently
  • huge




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FLUVAL 405
Benefits:

ood flow rate,
easy to clean and maintain,



Disadvantages:

expensive
have to clean it so much more often.
had to replace more parts than any of my other filters
base is leaking

Sunday, June 27, 2010

OneWeek Research:Next Aquariums in Montreal???Decision-making process..

My piranhas are growing up quickly, I  even cannot found the date they made some huge change, so far it's just 1 month for these babies living with me. from 1" to 2" , they are not petty anymore, and I'm planning to get a new tank for all of my fish.

Aquarius, Jean-Talon






























 
































































 AQUATICA, Pointe-Claire































































Aqua Tropical, Ferrier





































































NATURE Pet Center, AtWater